And finally

The final three days of our trip were spent in Singapore, the original plan to return to England via Bangkok, having been scuppered by the volatile political situation there, not to mention the closure of the airport.

If you like shopping malls, then Singapore is the place to come. The guide book described shopping as the national sport, or words to that effect, but we are not great city people and not great mall fans. Add to that the fact that we were a little jet lagged and beginning to think about coming home. However, we did enjoy visiting Chinatown and the India and Arab quarters and ate very good food, as well as imbibing (just one - they are quite expensive!) the traditional Singapore Sling. The weather was extremely humid and hot and the occasional thunder claps didn't seem to get rid of the hot muggy feel.

Thankfully, our trip to the airport was much less eventful than the previous one, and in the early hours of Friday morning we began to wing our way back home, tired, but with our heads crammed full of memories.

The trip was over.

We return feeling incredibly privileged to have had the opportunity to visit so many wonderful places and be awed by God's creation. We have really felt that God has been with us and that he guided and oversaw the whole thing. We are both very grateful to him.

We are thankful not just for the places we had chance to see, but the people we got to meet. And, as a result of hanging out with some of these folks, we have been challenged and inspired by the way they have chosen to live their lives. In many different ways we have seen how people have ordered their lives - to prioritise God; to share with , to serve, to bless - both others within their own communities, and beyond. We have seen the fruit that this has borne in both their lives and in the wider communities in which they live.

So we are grateful for the past three months, and, as we look forward, hopeful for our futures. We pray God will give us the grace and the will to change our lives (and our hearts) in the ways in which we feel he has prompted us. Again, we gratefully give him thanks.

Chris and Katharine

A last hurrah in South Island

We left the Stillwaters guys on Monday (24th Nov) and took a cheap (thank you Richard Branson) early morning flight to Christchurch so that we could make the very most of our last week in New Zealand. We wanted to do a southern loop of the South Island including the Otago Peninsula, Milford Sound, the Routeburn tramp and the Franz Josef glacier trying not to wear the car tyres out in the process! Overall it turned out to be a fabulous week, probably our best in NZ. Milford Sound was spectacular with waterfalls everywhere after several days of heavy rain -- the grandeur and majesty was reminiscent of Yosemite only this time there was water everywhere! From there we drove round to Queenstown and then Glenorchy to prepare for our next challenge, a four day and three night tramp along the Greenstone and Routeburn tracks (around 60km total) which take you through some of the most eye-popping alpine scenery. As with the Abel Tasman tramp we had to carry all our kit including food and water for the four days and this time we would be 'freedom' camping in the back country away from any traces of civilisation. We had been anxiously watching the weather and were SO grateful that the four days we had chosen were forecast to be dry, clear and even sunny. In fact it rained heavily the day before we started (we were warm and dry in our car at the time) and the day after we finished! We started off with two steady days walking (6 or so hours walking) building up to an epic 28km on the third day starting at 8am and ending at 8pm. We were so entranced by the scenery that we even added in an extra peak - just as we had reached the highest point of the tramp, - a pass - some wide eyed hiker assured us that the very best views were, actually, just up there. So there we clambered, in part through the snow, and indeed were rewarded with a panoramic 360 view of the mountain ranges all around. We really enjoyed our hard earned cold beans and tuna just before sundown. (We still hadn't bought any cooking equipment. I should also mention that we did not bring any towels either - I'm talking about the whole trip, not just that hike! Part of our travelling light ethic, though I am not sure why we both have books that we have carted round for three months but have failed to read...)

The last day was a leisurely two hour walk back to a hut where our prearranged transport took us back to civilisation. We had to camp at a very specific place on the third night hence the massive third day and short fourth. We loved every minute of these four days - sunshine and beautiful scenery are always good medicine for the soul.

What is definitely not good for the soul is running out of petrol in the middle of nowhere whilst hurrying to catch your next plane, a plane that you know that if you miss, you'll have to pay for the next one - concentrates the mind...

On our final morning we left ourselves with what we estimated would be a three hour drive from the west to Christchurch on the east coast. We had not bargained on there being no fuel until three quarters of the way there. With approximately 50 miles left before the next town where we could fill up and the fuel light having been on for ages, we decided to stop at a small settlement and ask if anyone could help. The only door that answered our knocking yielded nothing so we decided to flag down cars and ask if they had a fuel can we could borrow from them or if we could syphon some petrol. (note to Kiwi's - quite a few people did stop to see what the matter was and were very willing to help if they could. Full marks to NZ.)

In the end a man with a van offered to tow us, which he did for quite a few miles before we drove the last little, on fumes, to, aahh, a petrol station. We still had to get to the airport though and we were well behind time. K was dropped at the airport with our documentation while C sped off to take the car to the hire place. C got ever so slightly lost (believe me, it does help the prayer life!) and then when he got to the fuel station for the final top up before returning the car, realised he had forgotten to get cash when he dropped K at the airport. So, he put as much fuel as he had got cash for and ran round to look at the gauge - three quarters full - not enough to save a financial penalty for returning the car less than full). Fortunately he found a woman (the petrol assistant was uninterested in helping - boo, hiss) who changed a US$20 dollar note he had in his pocket to NZ currency. The car was filled, dropped off and then C was taken to the airport by the car hire van. Just as it was approaching the concourse Qantas phoned the car hire company - if I had been any further away I don't think they would have checked our bags, which they had held and would not send on their way until they knew I'd be on the plane. A massive PHEW all round!

When we arrived in Singapore our bags were not on the baggage claim belt and we thought that perhaps they had not been put on the plane after all. But they turned out to be at lost luggage - may be they went on a different flight, who knows, but another massive PHEW all round.

So, we write this from Singapore, as Bangkok airport was not operational when we were supposed to fly there. We'll tell you about Singapore next time, and perhaps add a few final thoughts on our trip as a whole.

Stillwaters

After a week or so with Urban Vision we moved to a different part of Wellington to spend the weekend with another community called Stillwaters. The core team are around 10 folk who live together in a big old house which they call the Castle. It was great to be welcomed and experience a style of life quite different to the guys at Urban Vision. The main focus of the Stillwaters involvement with the local community is via a communal meal that they host on Friday evening for around 50 folks and a church service on Sunday that is totally participatory with a rota for anyone to sign up to take different parts of the service from readings and prayers to the talk and communion. Leadership at the community is basically diffuse and not surprisingly some have called them Christian anarchists. A really interesting concept which Dave Andrews has written a book on, called 'Christianarchy'. The service was great with all kinds of people making a meaningful contribution - a working example of everyone feeling a valuable part and the 'important' things not being left to the 'experts'.

Diving with dumpsters

Having quite got used to enjoying creation and taking in beautiful views since our last visit to an intentional community (in San Francisco) it was strange to have to refocus ourselves as we caught the train to Waikanae, a short distance up the West coast from Wellington. There we were met by Jenny, who at once made us feel very welcome, showing us around Ngatiawa camp, introducing us to those currently residing there, both human and animal (we never quite got used to the goat, who liked to nuzzle firmly/butt whenever the opportunity was available, though we loved the dogs and cow and calf) and telling us a little of what UV is all about.

The camp serves as a sort of HQ, but is also a space where team members may stay for a while, perhaps before joining one of the city teams. They provide an excellent facility and resource for other groups wishing to do something away from the city - our first night's meal was provided by a youth group staying the night: hopefully you can see Katharine cooking a type of bread on the end of a stick over the fire! As folk who try to reach and include people on the margins they make sure that there is also a bed or two available for people who for whatever reason might just benefit from a stay there.

The whole UV team had arranged their twice yearly big get together (hui) in Porirua, between the camp and the city and had kindly been permitted to use the Maori marae (meeting place) there. We felt privileged to have been included and the next day waited outside with everyone else until we were sung to as an invitation to enter the building (inside and outside on pics). Having been officially welcomed by the local dignitary, who told us a bit about the history of the meeting place and their hopes for its future, we were left to our own devices. UV is big on bi-culturism and, even though we were all English speaking, each had to introduce themselves in Maori and say where they were from. We wrote down our brief script and said our bit too. The weekend consisted of chatting with many of the UV-ers, eating, praying and finishing with communion on Sunday. Much of the Saturday was devoted to rehearsals for Oliver Twist which the commnity (with great help from various folks, old and young that the various teams have got to know) are putting on at Christmas to raise money for a project in Burma. It should be absolutely brilliant.

We were also glad to be able to spend some time with a couple of the teams in the city as it is there that the rubber hits the road and they try to put their beliefs into practice. Chris's help was required by one of the guys who is assisting some of the schoolkids with their baton passing in preparation for an athletics meeting. This was a dubious choice given Great Britain's relay performance in the last Olympics! However progress was made, he assured us. Katharine spent time at a multicultural playgroup where carpet time with the kids was in Mandarin, Hindi, Maori and English!

All in all a very challenging and inspiring week as we spent time with people who have made some very radical and sacrificial choices in order to live among and alongside the poor and marginalised in their community. Everyone works part-time so that they have more time to spend in the community. That means that they have low incomes and need to live very simply. Everyone in Urban Vision is also conscious of living with as light an impact on the environment and global neighbours as possible. Many grow their own veg, keep chickens and have renounced buying any food from non-sustainable or unethical sources. Chris looked a little worried at some of the dietary restrictions this would mean if we adopted a similar approach!! One way of making ends meet that can bring unexpected luxuries for these guys is dumpster diving...see photo above. This involves heading out after dark to the bins at the back of large grocery stores and rummaging around for rich pickings. It is amazing what gets thrown out from delicious fresh baked bread to fresh fruit, expensive cheese and smoked chickens. We are quite seriously considering get into this practice once we are home and skint from our travels!

I guess the most important thing that we take away from our time with Urban Vision is a reminder that all the fruit seen in the lives of the people (both team and local community) is because of the time spent in prayer before God and the love and grace God will pour through his children as a result of that.

Diving with dolphins

We headed down the eastern coast road to Kaikoura where (as has increasingly become our custom) we pitched our tent in the dark and after the camp site staff had retired for the night. The next day (having of course paid for our pitch) we did the headland walk, observing seals basking on the rocks and getting excited about the prospect of hopefuly seeing, if not swimming with dolphins later in the day. We usually pride ourselves (yes, a mistake in itself) on walking faster than the estimated times given in the guide book. So, having walked fairly quickly, we thought, we were surprised to find ourselves with only 15 minutes to get to the embarkation point for the dolphin trip, and nowhere near where we needed to be. Alas, there was only one thing for it - we would have to run! And hard as it is to imagine, this is what we did - arriving at the office covered in sweat and gasping for air - but on time.

The trip was advertised as being the opportunity to swim with dolphins, but all the passengers happily agreed when the captain said he could see a couple of whales and did we want to go and check them out? As it turned out they were a couple of Orca (killer whales) and we were able to see them quite close. What was most amazing was that a couple of dolphins joined them so we could see two sets of different sized dorsal fins slowly appearing and then disappearing through the waves. The crew said the dolphins were dicing with death as the Orca are known to eat dolphins for dinner. After this unexpected and wonderful diversion, we headed off to where we hoped to find a larger pod of dolphins. What we encountered was beyond our expectations - according to the crew there were about 200 dusky dolphins, and they were jumping around and seemed generally to be having a lot of fun. Appropriately robed - in our wetsuits, masks and flippers, we jumped in a short distance away and swam towards them to see if they would like to play. We had been told by the crew to sing songs through our snorkels as this might interest the dolphins and increase the chances of them coming to investigate us. We are still not sure whether this was actually for the crew's amusement or not, but sing we did, and come and play they did. It was truly amazing - they would swim by us and around us and under us. It was absolutely glorious. And when they swam on, we'd get back in the boat and motor on a bit and then jump in again. We did this five times and every time they joined us , often swimming from behind us and appearing under us as we swam, giving us eye contact and giving us the impression they were enjoying it as much as we were.

It really was the most incredible afternoon. It quite took our breath away and we even saw the whales again on the way back. Happy days indeed.

Tramping the Abel Tasman way

After driving along the famous Whanganui river road we ferried it over to South Island, hoping for better weather than we'd had for Tongariro as we planned our second classic NZ tramp - the Abel Tasman Way. This would be the first time we would do a three day walk while carrying our food and our camping/sleeping gear. C wanted to know why there weren't any cafe's or pubs to ease the load of carrying our own food, but soon got into the stride. The first day and a half were not what we had hoped for weatherwise, but the scenery and being out in the wilderness were reward enough. The first night we sat around a camp fire with some others to keep warm until it got dark and we retired to our now proven tent to see what the weather would be like the next day:

Even wetter, though it got better as the day went on. It was dry by the time we had to ford a river - though we had to get wet as the river was up to our waists at one stage! We had to take our shoes and socks off, not to mention K's trousers(!) and C carried the rucksacks on his shoulders...

Day three was glorious and made it all worth while, as did the speed boat trip back to base at the end. (Note to Kiwi's: How come none of your walks are circular?)

One of the best day hikes in the world?

Next stop was Taupo, a massive lake which is actually a giant volcano, where we had another couple of hours sailing on a yacht that once belonged to Errol Flynn! Sadly there was very little wind and so the motor had to be used. K has sailed quite a bit in her youth but for me, C, our first sail up in the Bay of Islands (see earlier blog) had been quite breathtaking - zipping along quite quietly with only the wind for propulsion is really quite special, and changing from side to side of the boat when we change tack is great fun.

On the edge of the lake the water steamed hot due to the volcanic element and the area is quite beautiful, but we were really only stopping by here - our destination was the Tongariro crossing, according to the guide book, one of the great walks of New Z, if not the world. We tried to book transport to pick us up from the end of the trail but were told that due to the bad weather conditions the crossing was closed. So we decided we'd drive down to the area anyway with a view to doing a low level walk the next day and seeing if the weather cleared up the following day. When we arrived at the camp site to register we were immediately asked if we wanted to do the crossing tomorrow, to which we replied that we thought it was closed. We were told that the weather could have changed by the next morning and that if we wanted to do the crossing we should come to reception at 0700 and see if it was a go-er. The next morning came, and with it very heavy clouds and wind. We presented ourselves and were told that it would indeed be possible to do the walk and so we paid our money for the transport back afterwards. The pictures tell what the weather turned out to be...

Out of 14 people who set out for the trail head with us, 6 turned back shortly before the summit. A group of four it has to be said much older folk were just in front of us and though it seemed as if we might be blown off the mountain at any minute and though the rain was lashing into us frequently, they seemed quite calm about the whole enterprise. So, we decided to stick with them, and (I think) we are glad we did. We lived to tell the tale, though we descended very, very wet and a few degrees cooler than is generally desired. Our tent, when we returned, had survived its first major test. For 24 hours it had taken a bit of a pasting, but when we climbed in that evening, it was warm and dry. This was after we had rewarded ourselves at the pub across the road with a very fine leg of lamb shank indeed.

Aotearoa - part one

From Chile we flew across the International Dateline, totally missing Wednesday 29th October which was a little disconcerting, and arrived in Auckland before dawn on 30th October. We were happy to be back in a land selling good coffee. It's pretty odd that in lands of coffee production like Peru the coffee they serve is rank and yucky!

Having had almost continually great weather for as long as we could remember, it was a bit of a surprise to find Auckland, wait for it, cloudy! And windy, and on the cool side. We quickly learned that typical Aotearoan weather includes all four seasons in one day (sound familiar, Brits?). Anyway, we jumped in our hire car and headed North for the Bay of Islands where we stayed in backpackers hostel where we could see Russell across the water. The hostel was clean and friendly and we were to find that in general New Zealand backpackers hostels are run by decent folk committed to providing a quality, if basic, service. Many people cook in the kitchens provided (though we usually chose to eat out, often having had bread and cheese for breakfast and lunch) and everyone seems happy to chat and exchange stories.

The next day we went out to the islands in a yacht which previously had been a racing yacht (once winner of the Sydney - Hobart race) and owned and skippered by a really nice bloke who made the trip really enjoyable - as did a few dolphins and the sun!

After this we began to make our way back down the coast, camping at a bird sanctuary near Goat Island. Needless to say, the dawn chorus that greeted us the next morning was even more rowdy than usual! The plan had been to snorkel around the very rocky coast there, but the weather was quite cold, so we thought we might do it in the following morning. We did see various fish and a couple or rays just by clambering around the rocks and by the time tomorrow came we reckoned we needed to get a few miles under our belt, so the fish (not to mention humanity) were spared the sight of the pair of us in wet suits and masks! At least for the time being...

Yeah well, so much for promising a blog update soon eh?! Shortly after the last post we discovered we'd had a little miscommunication with the folk at Urban Vision and weren't expected for another week...this turned out to be a blessing in disguise all round as the guys at Ngatiawa (the community) were all down with a bug and we had been hankering after a little more time to see South Island. So, we hopped on a ferry and hot-footed it across the Cook Strait to Picton where we picked up a car and began a week of adventures, starting with one of New Zealand's famous tramps in Abel Tasman national park.

Before we get into that perhaps it would be good to fill in the gaps from the past month...after our last real entry in Arica, Chile we have covered quite a few miles. From Arica we headed down to the Atacama desert on another overnight bus (these were quite a feature of that week!) and arrived a little jaded in San Pedro in the middle of the Atacama salt flats - the most arid place in the world but not the driest. In case you are confused we can pass on the little lesson we had on the difference between the two! We made the most of our 36 hours there visiting the Valley of the Moon and Death Valley as well as bubbling geysers at dawn, hot springs and lakes with flamingo. From there we spent 24 hours on the bus to Santiago (yes, 24 hours; yes, one bus!) where we were welcomed by cousin Guy and his lovely family. The next four days were full of eating delicious food, drinking great wine and generally relaxing. It was great to sleep in a proper bed as well! Guy showed us around the winery where he works and we even got a serendipitous 'vertical' tasting of the vintage cabernet sauvignon! ('Vertical' refers to the comparison of various wines of the exact same type, but of differing years, and not to the position of the taster!) Fortunately or unfortunately we had to move on before we could get too accustomed to this way of life...Many thanks to all the Hooper Herreros for a wonderful few days.

Still alive...

Hmmm...what can we say on the lack of blog entries these past days? We are now in New Zealand and hope to write a better update when we get to the Urban Vision community over the weekend and can also upload photos. We are doing well and feel pretty hard core since we have been camping and hiking in wild, wet and windy conditions these past few days. Anyway, like I said, more later...

Musings...

We have been reflecting that part of the reason for the trip was to be 'spiritually re-envisioned or refreshed´, whatever that means...searching for God or something like that. Well, when we were walking up a mountain in Yosemite Chris said he'd had a thought which he wasn't sure was either theologically or spiritually true but that if he tried to articulate it he was pretty sure he'd get quite choked up! It turned out I was thinking more or less along similar lines. While we had been focussing on checking out communities as a means to finding God at work and counting the sightseeing as 'just fun' we had a sense of God smiling at us from amidst the beauty of creation saying 'You don't need to strive to find me, here I am, you don't need to try to fathom me I am bigger and more wonderful than you can imagine, relax and enjoy me!'

13th - 21st October - Cuzco, Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Chile

Well, this morning finds us in Arica, Chile...overnight bus and train from Arequipa got us here. We are both quite bleary eyed at this point. The guidebook said that the train was charming. By that, I think they meant rickety and ramshackle! We reckon you are all now quite bored of our renditions of 'this place amazing blah blah that place beautiful blah blah'! So, perhaps we should tell you that we haven't showered for more than four days and that Chris has a great case of scratchy stubble...I would show pictures but can't seem to find a place that will allow us to upload photos on the blog at the moment. Over the past week we have become backpackers...lugging our packs on and off buses as we have made our way across southern Peru and into Chile. The highlight has probably been staying with a local family on the island of Taquile on Lake Titicaca.

9th-12th October: Trekking to Machu Picchu

One of the main reasons for coming to Peru was to make the epic trek to Machu Picchu. We have just returned from the four day adventure and it was indeed epic. We arrived in Cuzco a couple of days before the trek to acclimatise to the altitude (3400m)...but were still sufffering from altitude sickness when we set off despite drinking copious amounts of the local brew - coca tea - which helps with the headaches, shortness of breath etc. This coupled with pouring rain made the first day of hiking uphill pretty hard work. After 7 hours of walking we camped the night and were relieved to find that our sleeping bags were still dry! Day two dawned brighter with no rain and little enough cloud that we had our first views of the majestic mountain ranges surrounding us. That put all 17 of our trekking party in a much better frame of mind. Our trail took us through isolated mountain communities (some over 4200m) where people still live as they have for many hundreds of years in single room mud houses with thatched roofs with nothing like running water, electricity or bathrooms. The men farm the hillsides where only small potatoes will grow and keep llama and alpaca (I still can't exactly tell the difference after seeing hundreds of the creatures over the past few days). We were greeted along that path by lots of children all excited to see us - mostly because they were hoping for a sweet or pencils or some small gift that we had brought to thank them for allowing us to walk through their world. It was quite incredible how simply these people live and with such dignity. This second day was the hardest physically as we climbed over two mountain passes, one of 4200m and the other 4500m. Chris and I were both still feeling the effects of the altitude and were extremely glad to finally puff and blow our way over the second pass. It was a great sense of achievement to arrive at the camp at the end of that day. We awoke on the third day to clear blue skies, frost and a beautiful rising sun, to views of snow-capped mountains and herds of alpaca/llama around us. The sun warmed the air so quickly that we were able to eat breakfast outside (one of Chris' favourite things to do) before setting off for the last full day of hiking - now all downhill into the sacred valley of the Incas. On day four we awoke at 430am to get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. It is indeed a mysterious place, set high among mountains with precipitous drops on all sides, it was completely shrouded in cloud and mist when we arrived. Throughout the first few hours this mist would lift and clear to reveal the ancient city then settle again. I can definitely understand why the Incas decided to build this city among these mountains in order to be closer to heaven.

One of the themes of this trip for me (K) has definitely been to face up to my fear of heights. Getting to and from Machu Picchu involves an extremely steep journey which we did by bus with me praying the whole way that the brakes would hold and that the bus would not fall off the cliff! And once again there was the opportunity to climb up a steep mountain to get an incredible view down over the ruins. The top of the mountain was reached by a trail of steep steps with drops on all sides. Chris and various of the gang were very keen to do the climb but I was trying to avoid it all morning...having had a tearful panic when Chris tried to get me to stand beside him for a photo ever so close to the edge of a many thousand foot drop! The dizziness I had been feeling cleared a little so I decided to attempt the climb since I figured that even if I only got half way I would still have an amazing view. The climb was so physical that my pounding heart and watching where I was putting my feet consumed my concentration sufficiently that I managed to get to the top. Again, it was worth it for the magnificent view now bathed in sunlight. Perhaps I am another step closer to not being so petrified of heights?!

Central and Southern California: 30th September - 5th October

We bid a fond farewell to Yosemite and hit the road again. This time we were headed to San Francisco to see Tom and Elaine Bible (friend from hOME in Oxford) and the folk at Church of the Sojourners. We made a little detour via Sonoma Valley and a couple of family run vineyards where we sampled some of their finest vintage then camped on the Marin headlands across the bay from SF. We had a really great time learning about Reimagine! and 7 which is the new monastic community that Tom and Elaine are a part of. We are also really grateful to Tim Otto and Edith Bernard from Church of the Sojourners who made us tea while graciously and thoughtfully answering all of our questions. I have been particularly intrigued by the fact that both CoSK and Sojourners (communities more than 20 years old) started off with quite activitist intentions and over the years have decided it is more important to live as the Body of Christ together. This has definitely got me thinking as I guess I have perhaps placed more importance on the idea of community as safe space for welcoming the outcast than as a place of discipleship for me. However, my views are being reviewed which is the whole point, right?

Tom and Elaine kindly hosted us and took us to dinner at a great Turkish place and then we headed on down the Magnificent Big Sur. We had another great night camping on the coast (our 11th) and enjoying drinking wine and playing cards under the stars while the surf crashed up on the beach. For the record Chris was soundly beaten at a game that Rich and Sarah Body taught us!!!

Our last couple of days in California were spent with Melanie, Julio and Samaya in the heart of downtown Los Angeles. It was fab to see them and hang out in their Latino neighbourhood. We even managed to eat Sushi which made me very happy indeed. Melanie took us to Venice beach where all sorts of weird and wonderful people are on show. Many thanks to the Avilas for a great weekend.

And now for Peru!!

Yosemite: 25-29 September

Having arrived the previous night in pitch blackness, what an amazing sight greeted us the next morning when we popped our heads out of the tent – Yosemite! In all its glory. I´ve used a little bit of poetic license here, because actually what we saw first thing was lots of other tents and assorted pine trees, but after that, once we had washed (and by now we had got into the habit of being pretty sharpish on the ablutions front) and walked away from the actual campsite, we found outselves in the basin of a beautiful green valley with incredibly high and sheer granite mountain peaks towering above us. Having been in America for some time, we know that one of their main "wow" words is "awesome", but I have to say that Yosemite is indeed truly awe inspiring.

After getting our bearings around the village and a very leisurely breakfast, it was time to head for the hills - Glacier point, in fact, which needed a bit of oomph for us to climb. The sun shone, the air was clear and it was a really great 9+ mile walk, with spectacular views of many of the surrounding mountains and valleys, as well as the odd bird of prey and various types of vegetation. Just before sunset when we were still in the wilderness we saw a bear which was a wonderful sight.

After the previous day´s exertions we decided to do the bottom of the valley walk, which in the end was about 13 miles altogether and we got back just before it got dark, as we had done the previous evening.

Yosemite is very well organised and has accommodation and eating places for the shoestring budget campers right through to those who like to holiday in style. It even has shuttle buses that ferry you to the various places. We had booked originally for two nights (we had to move our tent to a different site after the first night because we had not booked in time to get two consecutive nights on the same site) and thought that we might camp away from the valley the next night, but the other sites are so far away (45-60 minutes) that we really wanted to stay in the valley for a third night, and having fallen in love with the place, for a fourth too if possible. Word around the site was that if you got up early and queued at the reservation desk it might be possible to get a cancellation. So around 630am I joined a handful of others hopefully waiting for the office to open at 8am. Jackpot! We were able to get the same site for the next two nights.

Ok, now it´s time for Katharine to take over the story! Ever since arriving in Yosemite Chris had been enthused about climbing Half Dome. This is the ultimate Yosemite day hike to the park's spiritual centrepiece. 16+ miles and accompanying descriptions of 'extremely strenuous, not for the faint-hearted, best attempted over two days etc etc'. All of these had put the wind up me anyway, but this vertigo sufferer was most put off by the idea of the last 900ft to the crest which are scaled by pulling oneself up cables because the granite is to steep and smooth to be attempted otherwise. Well, the first two days of hikes had been so beautiful and worth all the effort we decided to give it a shot. I decided I need to conquer the fear and trust God! We set off at 6am while it was still dark so that we had a full 13 hours of daylight to get there and back. It was a fabulous day. It did take all our energy and all our courage to get up and back...we could hardly walk for the next week...but it was definitely worth it. I was so tired and glad when we had done the scariest bit I sat down and cried with relief! Hopefully we will be able to post some photos soon. The views from the top were immense but the most significant thing I did was to pop Chris' blisters so that he could make it down again!!! We are never ones to turn down a beer but we were so tired that night it was all we could do to eat something and roll into the tent. We didn't manage to toast our achievement for several days!